Pick up a local celeriac from a greengrocers and adapt this seasonal soup, originally made with porcini, to any local dried or fresh mushrooms. The recipe serves 4.

30g. / 1oz. dried mushrooms, e.g. porcini
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
salt, black pepper & crushed chilli flakes
500g. / 1lb. celeriac, cut into chunks
750mls. / 1 pt. 4fl. ozs. chicken or vegetable stock
125mls. / 4fl. ozs. double cream

Put the dried mushrooms in a bowl and pour over 400mls. / 14fl. ozs. hand-hot water and leave to soak for about half an hour. Scoop out the mushrooms, strain the soaking liquid through kitchen paper and set aside.

Put the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and when hot, cook the onion, garlic, celery and carrot with a pinch each of salt, pepper and chilli, stirring once or twice, until the onion is soft and pale gold, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the celeriac, give a good stir, add the mushrooms and strained liquour with the hot stock. Bring to the boil, adjust the heat to a slow simmer and cook until the celeriac is tender, about 30 minutes.

Whizz the soup until smooth, either in a food processor or using a hand held blender. Stir in the cream, thin with hot stock or water as needed and adjust the seasoning. Heat through until piping hot (but not boiling), ladle into warmed bowls and serve.